Before I start, I will warn you that this blog is the longest yet. As I sit down to begin this ‘chapter’, and review the past 4 weeks since Anthony returned, I am stunned by how much has happened and what we have done. The overriding impression I have, as I am sorting the photos to make sure I recall all the highlights, is one of happiness and the thought just occurred to me that if I had not applied for my volunteering position at 3am (when I couldn’t sleep for work worries), then I would have missed all this pure joy! I have said to many people in recent weeks, that I am even more convinced than ever that things happen for a reason because had my job not changed from one I loved to one that stressed me out and which I, sadly, no longer felt able to ‘buy into’ morally, I would not have looked to change it. Anthony and I have laughed together many times that if anyone had told us a year ago that we would be living happily in St Lucia, and he would be a long haired, flip flop wearing, dog walking artist, we would have laughed in hysterical disbelief!! Firstly, we would have thought that we could not possibly afford to do it, secondly, we would have thought that the mountain that needed to be climbed, and the changes that needed to be made, were impossible, and thirdly, that loved ones might not be able to do without us! It would also have been petrifyingly scary! Let me say to anyone thinking of making a radical life change and following their dream, it will probably be cheaper than you think and there are ways to ‘cut your cloth’ and sort a financial plan; the mountain, in reality, was a series of small steps that were each achievable, often fun and logical, so the path unfolded in front of us as we took the first tentative step which was applying in the first place; we found out, after telling loved ones and friends, that they wanted us to be happy, wished us well, and actually, although they love having us nearby and available, they can manage perfectly well without us thank you very much (this being a revelation and empowering for everyone); the fear is not there for most of the steps, the scariest being the day I formally gave in my notice and I knew that my reliable income would end, and that I may never work at that level again, even if I wanted to, which I didn’t. The saying to ‘feel the fear and do it anyway’ is liberating because by letting go of the familiar safety holds, you can begin to fly, and until you do, you never know that you can. ‘What if I fall….oh, but what if you fly?’ Quote just supplied by one of my inspirations, Brenda who I still have another fabulous 5 days with as I write this!! I love my friends!
The Thursday after Anthony got back, I had to hire a car to drive myself to the Vieux Fort clinic. Anthony came with me and had a mooch around the south west of the island, where neither of us had been before, while I saw children for therapy. He met me at 3pm and we headed straight to Mamiku Gardens, which I have wanted to visit since I arrived. You may recall that I had met Veronica at the yacht club, who had planted a lot of the gardens. The estate had been bought by her father-in-law in 1906, as he had wanted a farm in the tropics and settled on St Lucia. The estate has a rich history and for a long time in the 18th century belonged to the Baron de Micoud and his infamous wife, Madame de Micoud. I need to find out more about her…They built a beautiful plantation house on the hill and the gardens ran down the slopes to the south east and were reputed to be beautiful. The French eventually lost the land to the British after a bloody battle on the slopes below the house, all through the gardens. Brigands then also lived in the area and it is only after Veronica came to the island in the early 50s, that she began to return the gardens to their former glory. We only had about 40 minutes there, so we did not make it up to the site of the house, which was eventually virtually destroyed in a fire. The gardens are beautiful as you can see in the photos and we hope to return to do a fuller tour before long. Impy, Veronica’s daughter, and manager of the Yacht Club, has a book about the history of the Micoud family which she will lend me so I may report more on them later.
That Saturday, I had booked us a romantic night at Stonefield Estate, where Lucy and I had stayed the night of her birthday. I had got the locals’ rate and just couldn’t resist a mini moon with Anthony there, and it didn’t disappoint! The attention to detail, from the bougainvillea petals on the bed, in the bathroom and even in the loo roll, to the flowers, furnishings and complementary local cake and ice cool water, was perfectly done. We had a plunge pool with views to Petit Piton and a double hammock, outside shower, enormous bed with mosquito nets, views to die for and the most peaceful surroundings around us (with the occasional smell of sulphur from the volcano, which is good for us!?). We completely chilled and had the most romantic time. The highlight was watching the stars come out over Petit Piton, the whole Milky Way, and then seeing 2 fireflies light up a few feet in front of us! Bats, humming birds, butterflies all around us too……bliss…..
The following week was to be the beginning of a fortnight of fun and friendship like no other. On the Sunday, Miles and Jules (Julian), a long time friend of Miles’, and ours for a few years, arrived to stay at the Coco Palm, a hotel just down the road. Miles is always the very best friend to have around for fun and Julian is a ‘big o’l bear’ of a man in a warm, understated and avuncular way. A jolly good chef too, although on this trip he sadly didn’t have the time or resources to delight our taste buds. It was great to see them and they came round for supper with us the following day for a good catch up. They then went off on the Tuesday to do a trip to St Vincent & Bequia, to the south of us.
The following Thursday, Halloween (not celebrated here as it is a Catholic country), our next house guest, Brenda arrived. I have known Brenda for 5 or 6 years and we have always got on like a house on fire when we have met for a walk or a coffee. Those who know her, know how intrepid she is, and I just knew she would take up our invite to join us here. Brenda helped to encourage and inspire me to make the move from the regular job into a new life of travel, and for that I am enormously grateful. She arrived on the bus from the airport and was, like Lucy, almost instantly whisked down to the Yacht Club for a rum punch. Brenda did, wisely, heed my warning against 2!! She had read the blog. On Saturday, we walked up the mountain to the tranquil pool where you can get a free pedicure from hundreds of small fish that nibble your feet. Very tickly at first, but fun. We had a lazy lunch at Spinnakers and then stopped to look at the Christmas decorations. Yes, Christmas starts early in St Lucia. As soon as 1st November arrives, they all go up. St Lucians love Christmas!
That evening, the last of our St Lucia ’19 group arrived, the bouncy, generous hearted and delightful Caroline and Kieran. We stayed with them a couple of years ago on Ile de Re and I am so glad they joined us for the week. The following day, before Miles and Jules returned to St Lucia, the five of us, Caroline, Kieran, Brenda, Anthony and I, went to Pigeon Island for the day. We had a glorious day of sunshine and friendship on this beautiful place, with a rum punch in the sea, as you do here, lunch at Jambe de Bois (of course, why wouldn’t we?) swimming and beaching it.
The group had kind of come together by default because of the dates everyone could do and everyone knew someone, but no-one apart from us and Miles, knew everyone. Nevertheless, the group just gelled and everyone got on so, so well. We just had the best week, full of smiles, laughter and joy as the photos below show! Muggins, here, sadly had to work 4 days of the week (I only get a day’s leave for each month worked) but I did take the Monday off, and we hired a boat to go to Soufriere for the day. Since I arrived, one of my ‘must do’s’ has been to approach the Pitons from the sea and to see the coastline of St Lucia from the Caribbean. It was every bit as beautiful as I had imagined. We set off south about 10 am with our crew, Rebel (bet that goes down well with the ladies) and Michael in our jolly boat, and 2 cold boxes of…….well, you guess! What would you take for 7 on long day out at sea to have fun? (answers on a postcard….ha!) We stopped at Marigot Bay on the way down and at a bay off Canares for a swim in deep, clear, blue seas. We then swept into Malgretout Bay, below our beautiful Stonefield, and then round Petit Piton and into Sugar Bay. The rocky heights of Petit Piton rose majestically above us and the indigo waters dropped away below us. We jumped off at Sugar Beach, literally, and did some snorkelling there in the marine reserve where Lucy and I had swum recently. Again, we saw hundreds of beautiful fish and corals, and my favourite view of the sea bed dropping away into the depths beyond. After this, we went into Soufriere, tied up at the dock and got taken to an authentic local restaurant for local food. The catch of the day with ground provisions (plantain, breadfruit, green fig salad, rice and beans and local veg) was outstanding for flavour and freshness. Strangely, the waiter (or was he the proprietor too?) reminded us of SuperMario….see why below. It was hot, rustic, atmospheric and must be one of Soufriere’s best kept secrets.
The rest of the week included much more hilarity, dancing, colour, a barracuda (bravely caught by Brenda….hey Kieran?!), delicious food, sharing as only the best friends can, and, simply, joy! A selection of moments below…
Sadly, one by one they left, almost like the children’s song, until it was just Brenda and us left for 5 days. Well, we continued to make the most of our time together. Brenda helped set up for a local charity quiz night on the Tuesday. We were in a team of 8 with some walking ladies and Impy and came a respectable 5th out of 16 teams. We had a great evening. On Wednesday, Anthony and Brenda went to Pigeon Island and got mistaken for a couple in Jambe de Bois and were photographed for a Gertravel brochure. A very handsome couple they made too. I was at home after visiting the Dr with a nasty rash. I had thought I had bad mosquito bites that were exceedingly itchy but when they started tracking around my skin I didn’t feel right and got them checked. Well, it seems they were parasites I had picked up from the beach. They come from the dogs and the larvae can live in sand a long time. Revolting but one of the risks of the tropics I am prepared to take. I will be more careful sunbathing on the sand in the future. I am on tablets now and they are going thank goodness. That evening, Brenda’s last, we went to an art class at a nearby art cafe. It was great fun and you can see the results below.


A few more photos from our last few days with Brenda.
It is now Saturday and before I publish this section of my blog, I want to show you the coconut picking at the end of the garden this morning. When I got back from my usual walk we heard voices outside and went to look. The man at the back of us had men in to pick the coconuts on the 2 trees at the end of his & our garden. We watched them scale the tree expertly in the way men have done here for ever. He goes up with a cloth rope round his waist and them up goes the machete for him to hack off a branch of nuts which then get lowered down on the rope. Of course we got offered one to drink and it was warm, fresh, faintly sweet and delicious!
So glad you are having such an amazing time – I really can’t wait to join you now!!!!! xxx
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Can’t wait to show it to you and have lots of fun in the sun xxx
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