Dorian and finding Paradise…

Well, it has been quite a 10 days since the last blog! John, H, asked me to write something more interesting and voila!, Dorian appeared on the horizon. We got the alert from CDGC colleagues that a tropical storm was developing on Saturday afternoon. Apparently, the form is to keep a hurricane store of supplies at this time of year; extra bottled water, as the water supply can be off for 2 or 3 days; extra food, dry and canned particularly, as stores may be closed days and electricity off; candles, matches, batteries and torches for the same; basic medical and household supplies for a few days. Well we only had fresh food for a couple days, no bottled water or first aid stuff, so Sunday morning we set off early to stock up ahead of the crowds!

By Sunday evening, Dorian had been named and was officially a tropical storm, heading towards becoming a hurricane (sadly true as we now know), and due to pass us on Monday night. At work on Monday, I was given the drill that we would be closed on Tuesday and to be prepared for up to 2 or 3 days at home if there was damage. I was reassured that the north of St Lucia, where we are, does not usually get much damage in such storms and hurricanes. Most damage usually occurs in the south and it most often results in landslides due to the amount of rain. ‘Is my little house safe where we are?’ I asked, a little nervously, I admit. Having seen what Irma did in Anguilla, I have enormous respect for the elements in this part of the world. I was assured it has a new style roof and that if this did blow off, we have downstairs which is, essentially a concrete box. ‘And if there are floods or a storm surge?’ (just checking!). ‘You have upstairs’ Aretha cheerily assured me. I didn’t want to ask, ‘What if we have a storm surge and lost the roof?’!! 🙂 Best not to over-analyse!

Things got a bit more tense when Anthony messaged me on Monday afternoon, 26th, to say that the calor gas for all our cooking had run out. Perfect timing! At least it didn’t run out on Tuesday morning when we could be on our own for 2 days and there would be now way of replacing it. Aretha kindly took me to get a replacement bottle after work, however, the world and it’s mother were stocking up on everything too – St Lucia was in full stock pile mode. A journey home, that usually takes 20/25 minutes, took 2 hours! The roads were grid locked as everyone went home and to stock up at the same time. Eventually we got home, with the gas, and Anthony and I set about filling everything in sight with water. If the reservoirs get damaged or flood water gets in them, the supply can be off for days, so we needed 2+ litres a day each to drink, plus water for washing.

The CDGC watsap group informed us about 7pm that we were officially on hurricane watch and Dorian had a high chance of becoming a hurricane overnight. The forecast was now for up to 90 mile an hour winds and up to 10 inches of rain. Feeling a little apprehensive we headed for bed early, anticipating a noisy and wakeful night. Dorian was due to arrive around 4am. I woke about 12.30am to some wind and heavy rain on the metal roof. Nothing worse than we had experienced before while John and Rachel were here. ‘And so it begins…’ I thought and managed to get back to sleep after a while. I then woke around 5am, just before dawn and nothing was happening. Anthony was awake too and, looking out of the window, all we could see was a light wind and dark skies. We decided it had changed course or was late, so went to sleep again. When I finally woke at 7 am, a real lie in, it was raining and grey but no worse than a front coming over on IW. No-one could understand what had happened and where Dorian had gone to. As the day progressed, we got the all clear to go out (you are strongly advised to stay indoors until the Government say it is safe) and it became clear that Dorian had passed directly over St Lucia, but the ‘spokes’ of the cyclone had turned over us in such a way that we missed the worst of the wind and rain. It had dropped 10 inches on Martinique, only a few miles north of us, where videos of deep floods and cars washed away, were being shared on social media. ‘St Lucia is blessed!’ many locals have been saying, as it often gets spared the worst hurricanes. We are grateful it was, particularly as it has since turned into such a monster. It is unimaginable how terrifying it must have been for the residents of the Bahamas as it battered them with 180 mph winds, and huge storm surge, for more than 30 hours, while just stationary above them!

We then had a quiet week and last weekend we hired a car to see more of the island. On Saturday we did some errands, further explored the north of the island; Pigeon Island and visiting the northern most point, Cap Estate, with gorgeous views of both sides of the coast. We ended up at Calabash Cove, a beautiful boutique hotel with a small white sand cove. It really was a jewel of a place, as promised, and we ended the day with a swim and a sun-downer in their bar watching the sun set over the Caribbean Sea.

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Sunday was the day we discovered heaven on earth. I couldn’t imagine that such peace, serenity and perfect beauty existed on earth. If heaven is like Soufriere, beam me up Scotty! I have been lucky enough to have seen some amazing places that take my breath away, one of the best being Tennyson Down, but the effect on me and the vibes there, left me emotional and with such a deep happiness just to have experienced it, that I would be surprised if anything can ever top it!

It started with the amazing drive. Once we got past Marigot Bay, the roads became bordered by full-on rainforest, houses and villages became sparse, gradients became steeper (15%) and hairpin bends constantly. I began to really enjoy myself and felt like a rally driver! Our first glimpse of the Pitons was stunning, see for yourself…

As we had set off before 7 am, we arrived at the sulphur baths around 8.30 am and it was relatively cool at 27c. We were confidently told we would be 10 years younger when we came out so we both tripped gleefully down to the dark pools. There were 4 concrete 4ft deep baths, fed directly by waters from the volcano up the mountain. Each was 100f or 38c and so hot that when you first step in you pull your foot straight back out again. As you slowly ease down into the muddy waters you get used to the heat (just) and eventually you can stand it and are in. The bottom of the pool is soft and squidgy with mud and the waters almost black. We were given mud from the adjacent cliffs to cover ourselves in and while I went for the full monty, in mud terms, Anthony cautiously covered chest, arms and back. We enjoyed reclining by the side of the pool while it dried and then bathed again to rinse off. Our skin really did feel soft and fresh, but 10 years younger….not entirely convinced! After a fresh shower, we drove up to the world’s only drive in volcano. We had a guide who told us all about the ‘caldera’, which is the type of open crater which has collapsed in on itself. Catherine C-M will understand it all and will love it. All of Soufriere is in the crater, which is 7 miles across, and this may account for the strangely ethereal vibes. Anthony is not, as you know, into vibes that much, but he did feel them too. It has a hush and a peacefulness about it that is mesmerising and really affects you. We walked up to where the mud and steam was bubbling, felt the hot water from a stream channeled by the French Army in the 18th century to allow the troops to partake of the health benefits of the waters, and learned how sea water gets sucked in and up to form the steam jets. The water is naturally heated to around 100f by the escaping vapours of the volcano, one pool actually becoming a natural Jacuzzi that sadly you can’t go in now.

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By now we were as chilled as either of us has been since we met, or almost ever, and we then headed to the Botanic Gardens, which for me was going to be a highlight. As we went in, we were greeted with the sound of the warm volcanic water bubbling over rocks, brightly coloured butterflies chasing through the dappled shade of exotic plants, the heavy scent of beautiful tropical flowers and the sight of more gorgeous trees and plants than you could shake Monty Don at! A strange analogy but as he is my guilty pleasure, I am sticking with it. As we walked, we both became even more at peace and almost couldn’t speak, as words simply couldn’t do justice to what we experienced, and still can’t as I try now to share it. It was a whole body and soul moment. I honestly felt that Heaven could not be more perfect than this, I had found it….

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To finish the whole incredible experience we then found our way to the Mango Tree Restaurant for lunch where we had delicious tapas overlooking Petit Piton. I wanted a view, and I had it in spadefuls! I will let the photos speak for themselves.

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So, the glow from the weekend is still with us and we wonder what more St Lucia has in store for us………we soon found out, see below!

All my love, Allie xxx